Cosmetics & Persnoal Cares, Flavor & Fragrance Industry
- What does Lily of the valley smell like?
Floral notes play important role in fragrances for daily chemicals. Lily of the valley, as well as rose, jasmine, Neroli and tuberose, is a widely-used scent. As a member of Liliaceae, it possesses delicate and fresh notes. Lily can interact with various notes like clear, sweet, fresh, delicate, making fragrance interlocking, without break: the rosewood and honey-sweet notes of Lily bring fresh note to rose sweet note naturally. Its body note, Calyx, honey-sweet and jasmine notes transit rose sweet note to jasmine and Neroli notes smoothly. Clear and dynamic like water, Lily of the valley can also deliver a morning-dew-like, pure and delicate atmosphere. It can interact not only with floral notes naturally, but also smoothly with many non-floral notes. Overall, in terms of note transition, note harmony and note expression, Lily of the valley floral note is unique and irreplaceable for the creation of fragrance for daily chemicals.
- How many notes does Lily of the valley have?
Lily of the valley flower, also called as Muguet, has double floral notes, fresh (both clear and turbid) and delicate (both sweet and light). It is clear and fresh like jasmine, sweet like acacia farnesiana and iris. The main part of Lily is cream sweet and honey-sweet notes, based on fresh notes. Analysis of notes of Lily as follows:
Note type | Note | Representative ingredient | CAS |
Fresh, green | plum | Cyclamen aldehyde | 103-95-7 |
hydroxycitronellal | 107-75-5 | ||
Lilial | 80-54-6 | ||
Lyral | 31906-04-4 | ||
lily propanol | 103694-68-4 | ||
dimethyl benzyl carbinol | 100-86-7 | ||
p-Anisaldehyde | 123-11-5 | ||
Styralyl acetate | 93-92-5 | ||
Terpineol | 8000-41-7 | ||
Terpinyl acetate | 80-26-2 | ||
rose wood | Linalool | 78-70-6 | |
Dihydromyrcenol | 53219-21-9 | ||
freesia heptanol | 13254-34-7 | ||
Daidai leaf oil | |||
michelia aiba leaf oil | |||
Petitgrain Oil | 8014-17-3 | ||
jasmine | Benzyl acetate | 140-11-4 | |
alpha-Hexylcinnamaldehyde | 101-86-0 | ||
JasMonyl | 1322-17-4 | ||
Methyl dihydrojasmonate | 24851-98-7 | ||
Ylang Ylang Oil | 8006-81-3 | ||
Aglaia odorata flower oil | |||
Jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum, ext. | 84776-64-7 | ||
Calyx | Phenethyl alcohol | 60-12-8 | |
Phenylacetaldehyde | 122-78-1 | ||
phenyl acetaldehyde dimethyl acetal | 101-48-4 | ||
leaf | Leaf alcohol | 928-96-1 | |
methyl heptine carbonate | 111-12-6 | ||
methyl octine carbonate | 111-80-8 | ||
Sweet | cream sweet | Phenethyl cinnamate | 103-53-7 |
Methyl cinnamate | 103-26-4 | ||
linalyl cinnamate | 78-37-5 | ||
Benzyl cinnamate | 103-41-3 | ||
Cinnamyl alcohol | 104-54-1 | ||
3-phenyl propionaldehyde | 104-53-0 | ||
tolu balsam | 9000-64-0 | ||
siam benzoin resinoid | 9000-72-0 | ||
rose honey sweet | ethyl linalool | 10339-55-6 | |
N-methyl ionone | 1335-46-2 | ||
Geraniol | 106-24-1 | ||
(E,E)-farnesol | 106-28-5 | ||
Orris oil | 8002-73-1 | ||
Citronellyl acetate | 150-84-5 | ||
Geranium oil | 8000-46-2 | ||
spicy sweet | Eugenol | 97-53-0 | |
Isoeugenol | 97-54-1 | ||
bean sweet | Vanillin | 121-33-5 | |
Piperonyl aldehyde | 120-57-0 | ||
fruit sweet | bergamot oil | 8007-75-8 | |
citronellyl nitrile | 51566-62-2 | ||
Turbid | Turbid | Indole | 120-72-9 |
Methyl anthranilate | 134-20-3 | ||
p-Tolyl phenylacetate | 101-94-0 |
- How to create Lily of the valley fragrance?
In the early days, Lily of the valley fragrance usually is based on hydroxycitronellal, jasmine, and rose note ingredients, composed with Linalool, terpineol, and N-methyl ionone. With the appearance of synthetic aroma chemicals like Lilial, many ingredients can be replaced. Lilial can partially replace hydroxycitronellal to reduce its use level, meanwhile, decrease the allergy which may be caused by aldols.
Based on the analysis result of notes of Lily of the valley, the thought for the creation of Lily of the valley fragrance is as below:
- Top note: use leaf alcohol and methyl heptine carbonate to simulate leaf notes to bring the fresh scent of Liliy. Then add decyl aldehyde and styralyl acetate to reduce the harsh smell of methyl heptine carbonate.
- Body lily note: hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Lyral as a subject note, Cyclamen aldehyde, p-anisaldehyde and terpineol to present plum note, dimethyl benzyl carbinol to refine the rough of terpineol smell.
- Jasmine note: use alpha-Hexylcinnamaldehyde and benzyl acetate to present.
- Rosewood note: freesia heptanol, Linalool and Michelia alba leaf oil can bring tension to rosewood note, and link jasmine note with a subject lily note.
- Calyx note: Phenethyl alcohol and phenyl acetaldehyde dimethyl acetal bring Calyx note, meanwhile transit fresh note to rose sweet note naturally.
- Main sweet note: Ethyl Linalool, Geraniol, N-methyl ionone/(E,E)-farnesol and Geranium oil present rose honey sweet note, while Cinnamyl alcohol and Phenethyl Cinnamate bring cream sweet note. These ingredients transit fresh notes to sweet notes and make the sweet notes more thick and lasting.
- Fruit sweet note: bergamot oil and citronellyl nitrile help the expression of lily scent and also link fresh note with a sweet note in another channel.
- Bean sweet note: Vanillin and Piperonyl aldehyde bring bean sweet note to reinforce the cream sweet note.
- Turbid note: Ylang Ylang Oil, Indole, Methyl anthranilate and p-Tolyl phenylacetate present turbid note and coordinate with Jasmine note.
- Fixative agent: tolu balsam as a fixative agent, harmonious with a cream sweet note. The fixative agent should be able to fix the notes and consist with lily note.
- In the last step, add a certain amount of Jasmine oil and rose oxide to express the naturality and strength of note.
- How is Lily fragrance used in daily chemicals and other fragrances?
Some examples:
- Body powder: Add 0.5% Lily fragrance to body powder made from talcum powder and zinc oxide.
- Toner: Add 0.01% Lily fragrance and two times of solubilizer to serum composed of 1,3-butanediol, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Resveratrol and Ginkgo Biloba Extract.
- Aromatherapy products: Burning Aromatherapy and Reed Diffuser are traditional Aromatherapy products that widely use Lily fragrance. Nowadays Aromatherapy Machine is more popular. The essential oils used in the machine can be made from lily fragrance, DPG, lemon oil, sweet orange oil, geranium oil, phenoxyethanol and Zinc ricinoleate deodorant.
- Personal care fragrances: Using lily fragrance to equally replace aldol, Lilial and Lyral can make fragrance note more thick and rich in Shampoo and shower gel;
- Floral fragrances: Lily fragrance is coordinated and mellow in jasmine fragrance,
Lavender fragrance and etc. Especially when fragrance used in fine perfumes, it can mellow the harsh smell of ethanol.
- Non-floral fragrances: The adding of Lily fragrance can make grass and wood fragrance odor more rich and coherent.