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C.Oleifera (Latin name: Camellia oleifera arbel) is a kind of evergreen shrub has 3 to 4 meters high, which originated in Fujian and Guangxi, the southern mountainous of China. The seeds appear spherical triangle like (See Figure 1.) and the florescence of C.Oleifera keeps twelve months from October to next year.1
The oil-seeds of C.Oleifera generally were used as cooking oil after the filtrating processing. Due to which contain rich physiologically active substances, Japan and Korea cosmetic manufacturers used the seeds of C.Oleifera as cosmetic bases in the formulas.
C.Oleifera seeds oil for cosmetic grade belong to the type of nondrying oil, the Lodine value displays 84g/100g, has strong permeability to be absorbed by human skin. It also has an excellent oil thermal stability would not easy reacting a rancidification after the refined process, and the acid value is refined to a low content. It will also absorbs the UVB.2
Table 1. Physical and chemical characters of C.Oleifera oil.
Content/Items | Iodine Value, g/100g |
Saponified Value, mg/g |
Refractive Index, 25°C |
Fat Freezing Point, °C |
Unsaponified, % |
Relative Density, 20°C/40°C |
C.Oleifera oil | 83~89 | 193~196 | 1.467~1.469 | -5~-10 | 0.5~0.9 | 0.912~0.917 |
According to the test for fatty acid of C.Oleifera seeds oil by GC method, the result shows a high fatty acid content in the oil. Oleic acid by 79.44%, palmitic acid by 9.55%, linoleic acid by 9.12%, stearate by 1.05%, linolenic acid by 0.16% and other aicd by 0.68%.3 The SFA by 88.72% in the total contents of C.Oleifera seeds oil. It is a highly similarity as human skin. Comparing the fatty acid, that in the C.Oleifera is higher than Olive oil by 79.44% with 65.32%. (See Table 2.) However, C.Oleifera seeds oil contents the other physiologically active substances such like Camellianin, Tea saponin and Polyphenols.
Table 2. Comparing the contents of C.Oleifera oil with Olive oil.
Contents | C.Oleifera Oil, % | Olive Oil, % |
Oleic acid | 75.03~86.91 | 55.0~83.0 |
Linoleic acid | 8.05~10.50 | 3.5~21.0 |
Linolenic acid | 0.51~0.87 | 0.0~1.5 |
Stearate | 1.05~1.83 | 0.5~5.0 |
Palmitic acid | 8.03~11.73 | 7.5~20.0 |
However, C.Oleifera seeds oil is a good original ingredient for fatty acid based surfactant, by moisturizing function to hair cares, body cares, soaps, lipsticks and etc. formulas.
HAIR CARES
In ancient age of China, women have used C.Oleifera seeds oil cleaning their hairs to keep brightly black color. The Oils division of CCOA (Chinese Cereals and Oils Association) introduced that “If you mix oil in the warm water when you are cleaning your hairs, the C.Oleifera seeds oil will clean and moisturize your hairs. The rich active substances would be absorbed by scalp and prevents dandruff.” Chinese medicine also recorded this efficacy.
BODY CARES
Human skin is easy absorbing C.Oleifera seeds oil by the rich fatty acid, and the SFA will keep skin with tender and luster. This seeds oil also can against senescence, because of the Vitamin E can inhibit the production of Lipofuscin.
C.Oleifera seeds oil for cosmetics is a good green ingredient to cosmetic formulas, it is similarly and can substitute Olive oil. In the Asian markets, Chinese, Taiwanese, Japanese, and Korean have developed C.Oleifera shampoo, soaps, hair conditioners, lipsticks and etc. products.
- Medicinal Plant Images Database, School of Chinese medicine, HKBU
- Preparation of colorless camellia oil, Wenwei Chen, 2006
- Analysis and detection of C.Oleifera seeds oil for cosmetics, Li Ma, 2009