Industry News, Cosmetics & Persnoal Cares
Mānuka: unleashing New Zealand’s biodiversity
New Zealand’s indigenous Māori people has long revered the mānuka tree (Leptospermum scoparium) for its myriad medicinal properties. Here, Organic Bioactives presents a novel cosmetic active made using mānuka leaf extract, promising high-efficacy in skin, scalp, and hair care
The bountiful biodiversity and rich cultural tapestry of New Zealand is interwoven with the healing traditions of the indigenous Māori people, who have long revered the mānuka tree (Leptospermum scoparium) for its myriad medicinal properties.
Mānuka has long been recognized for its medicinal properties, particularly in the form of honey. However, the lesser-known yet equally potent source lies in its leaves.
Recent studies have delved into the bioactive compounds present in mānuka leaves, unravelling a treasure trove of cosmetic applications potential. Among these compounds, β-caryophyllene has emerged as a key player in conferring anti-inflammatory properties to the mānuka leaf. This article explores the unique bioactive compounds found in mānuka leaves, with a special focus on β-caryophyllene and its role in combating inflammation.
New Zealand-based Organic Bioactives proudly presents a novel ground-breaking cosmetic active — MānukaDerMX® – hereafter, the mānuka leaf extract, promising high-efficacy in skin, scalp, and hair care. This article delves into the unique attributes of mānuka leaf extract, exploring its potent antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties for skin scalp and hair and sustainable harvesting practices deeply rooted in Māori tradition.
Mānuka leaf and its rich bioactive composition
Mānuka, a native shrub of New Zealand, has been traditionally used by indigenous communities for various medicinal purposes. These compounds not only contribute to the plant’s resilience but also offer a myriad of health benefits.
Mānuka leaves contain a diverse array of bioactive compounds, contributing to its medicinal properties. While the exact number can vary, numerous studies have identified and characterized most beneficial bioactive compounds in mānuka leaves.
Key bioactive compounds
- β-Caryophyllene: A sesquiterpene with anti-inflammatory properties, selectively binding to cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2) in the endocannabinoid system.
- Flavonoids: These are a group of polyphenolic compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Examples include quercetin, kaempferol, and myricetin.
- Tannins: Polyphenolic compounds known for their astringent properties, contributing to anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.
- Polyphenols: Various polyphenolic compounds, such as gallic acid and catechins, with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Leptospermone: A compound with antimicrobial properties, contributing to the plant’s defence mechanisms.
- Phenolic acids: Compounds like caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
- Terpenoids: Diverse terpenoid compounds with potential therapeutic benefits, including anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
- Alkaloids: Though present in smaller quantities, alkaloids contribute to the overall bioactivity of mānuka leaves.
It is important to note that the relative concentrations of these compounds can vary based on factors such as plant age, environmental conditions, and extraction methods. Additionally, ongoing research may lead to the discovery of new bioactive compounds in mānuka leaves, further expanding our understanding of its medicinal potential.
β-Caryophyllene – the powerhouse compound
One standout bioactive compound found in mānuka leaves is β-caryophyllene, a sesquiterpene commonly present in various plants, including cannabis and black pepper. What sets mānuka apart is the significant concentration of β-caryophyllene in its leaves.
This compound has gained attention for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a perfect candidate for the development of natural anti-inflammatory cosmetic actives.
The mechanism of β-Caryophyllene in inflammation
β-caryophyllene exerts its anti-inflammatory effects through interaction with the endocannabinoid system (ECS). Unlike other cannabinoids found in cannabis, β-caryophyllene selectively binds to cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2).
The activation of CB2 receptors modulates immune responses and inflammation, offering a targeted approach to managing inflammatory conditions.
Synergistic effects of other bioactive compounds
While β-caryophyllene takes the spotlight, mānuka leaves boast a plethora of other bioactive compounds that work synergistically to enhance its medicinal properties. These include flavonoids, tannins, and polyphenols, each contributing to the overall anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential of the plant.
Flavonoids, for instance, have been shown to inhibit inflammatory pathways and reduce oxidative stress. Tannins exhibit anti-inflammatory effects by modulating immune responses. The combined action of these compounds in mānuka leaves showcases the complexity and effectiveness of a whole plant botanical extraction compared to isolated compounds.
Mānuka leaf extracts in inflammatory conditions
The potential applications of mānuka leaf extracts in managing inflammatory conditions and its broad spectrum anti-microbial properties are diverse. Researchers are exploring the use of these extracts in conditions such as rheumatoid arthritis, inflammatory bowel disease, and dermatological disorders.
The natural and holistic approach of whole plant mānuka leaf extracts presents an appealing alternative to conventional anti-inflammatory medications with fewer side effects.
The synergistic action of other bioactive compounds further enhances the therapeutic potential of mānuka leaf extracts.
As research continues to unfold, mānuka leaves could become a cornerstone in the development of novel anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory cosmetic ingredients. The integration of traditional knowledge with modern scientific exploration highlights the importance of preserving and harnessing the medicinal properties of nature.
Mānuka, once primarily known for its honey, is now emerging as a holistic healing resource, with its leaves holding the key to a new era of highly effective bioactives.
Mānuka leaf extract & the skin microbiome
The human skin microbiome, comprising trillions of microorganisms, plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin. A balanced microbiome acts as a protective barrier, regulates inflammation, and contributes to overall skin wellbeing.
As the demand for natural and sustainable beauty solutions grows, the mānuka leaf extract emerges as a safe, versatile ingredient, combining tradition and modern science to support the health and harmony of the skin, hair and scalp microbiome.
Derived from the leaves of the New Zealand endemic mānuka tree, this multitasking extract boasts a unique composition of polyphenols, flavonoids, and essential oils, exhibiting potent antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity. By selectively targeting harmful bacteria while preserving beneficial microorganisms, mānuka leaf extract promotes a balanced and resilient skin microbiome. Its applications extend beyond skin care to hair care, contributing to scalp balance and health.
Traditional roots – Māori harvesting practices
Māori harvesting practices, deeply rooted in respect for the environment, embrace a holistic approach that goes beyond resource extraction. Guided by principles of traditional harvesting practices – Tikanga, Māori communities prioritize the vitality and longevity of the plant.
This is to preserve their natural resources such a s food and Rongoa — the medicine of the forest for future generations. This unique and sustainable approach is called regenerative harvesting. It includes repurposing of every part of the plant, minimizing waste, and fostering environmental stewardship.
By integrating traditional knowledge with modern sustainability principles, the Māori people exemplify a harmonious relationship with the land.
Mānuka leaves – TPT Xtraction®
To validate the traditional claims of antimicrobial properties, Organic Bioactives conducted in-depth research using proprietary Tripartite (TPT) Xtraction – green, chemical-free, whole plant extraction technology.
Patent pending TPT Xtraction® is a result of 12 years of comprehensive research in highly efficient, chemical free extraction of the whole plant. It implements an innovative three-layered, cold processed, chemical-free bio-liquefication and proprietary filtration system.
The main focus is to obtain high yields of extremely officious cosmetic bioactives with low biomass input, derived from fresh, raw and biodiverse New Zealand land and marine botanicals. This low-speed, cold crushing, and pressing system maximizes the retention of plant vitality, ensuring the release of key bioactives, essential vitamins, antioxidants, enzymes, and minerals.
In vitro testing of mānuka leaf extract demonstrated remarkable antimicrobial activity at varying concentrations (1.5% and 1%). Strains including C. acnes, S. aureus, and C. xerosis, were tested to mimic the sebaceous environment. The results, as depicted in Figure 2, showcase the extract’s ability to combat skin infections, purify acne-prone skin, and protect the skin and hair microbiome.
Mānuka leaf extract and antioxidant properties
Expanding on our exploration of mānuka leaf extract’s versatile benefits, we conducted further studies to emphasize its rich antioxidant properties, validating the efficacy of Organic Bioactives’ TPT Xtraction technology in personal care applications.
In a comprehensive evaluation, we subjected the mānuka leaf extract to various antioxidant assays, highlighting its potential as a natural alternative for cosmetic formulations.
Our first examination involved assessing the antioxidant activity of the mānuka leaf extract against vitamin C (ascorbic acid) through the Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) assay. Utilizing a spectrometer, we compared the sample to known concentrations of Trolox standards.
Remarkably, at a concentration of only 2%, the mānuka leaf extract exhibited more than double the total antioxidant capacity compared to conventional vitamin C at a significantly higher concentration (15% w/v).
In our second analysis, we employed the CUPRAC (cupric reducing antioxidant capacity) assay to determine the total polyphenol concentration equivalent to gallic acid. By mixing the mānuka extract with the CUPRAC reagent and measuring absorbance at 450nm after 30 minutes, we established a total polyphenol concentration equivalent to 67.2ug/ml gallic acid.
The findings underscore the mānuka leaf extract’s promise as a potent antioxidant in cosmetic formulations, emphasizing its superiority even at lower concentrations compared to traditional alternatives.
Beyond antioxidant capabilities, our investigation extended to measuring the mānuka leaf extract’s relative chelating properties against the industry-standard EDTA at equivalent concentrations. Impressively, the mānuka leaf extract exhibited a relative metal chelating property of 76.8%, suggesting its potential as a natural booster for existing formulations requiring chelating agents.
In conclusion, our research showcases the mānuka leaf extract as a multifaceted ingredient, not only promoting skin, scalp, and hair health but also offering a sustainable and effective alternative in the realm of antioxidants, anti-microbial, and chelating agents for cosmetic formulations. Organic Bioactives invites the beauty industry to explore the vast potential of the mānuka leaf extract in creating innovative, nature-inspired skin care, scalp care and hair care products.
Mānuka leaves – unveiling nature’s power for hair and scalp wellness
The field of scalp health and hair care has been evolving, with ongoing research and advancements.
Increased awareness of hair and scalp health has led to a growing demand for effective and accessible cosmetic ingredients that do not disturb sensitive scalp biome and negatively affect hair follicles.
Since Covid, several trends are shaping the hair and scalp product market. Consumer preferences in this industry tend to evolve based on factors such as lifestyle changes, technological advancements, and a growing emphasis on natural and sustainable ingredients.
Consumers are increasingly seeking products with clean and minimal ingredient lists, avoiding harsh chemicals such as sulphates, parabens, and silicones. Sustainable packaging and environmentally friendly practices are also gaining importance.
There is a growing demand for hair and scalp products containing natural and organic ingredients. Botanical extracts, essential oils, and plant-based formulations are popular choices as consumers prioritize clean and green beauty.
Hair and scalp products are incorporating wellness-oriented ingredients such as adaptogens, vitamins, potent antioxidants, and minerals to promote overall hair and scalp health. Products that align with broader wellness trends, supporting stress and ROS reduction and relaxation, are also gaining traction.
Scalp health focus
Scalp health is gaining recognition as a crucial factor in overall hair health. Products addressing scalp concerns, including anti-dandruff solutions, soothing treatments, and microbiome-friendly formulations, are on the rise.
The beauty industry is moving towards greater inclusivity, and this extends to hair care. Products designed for diverse hair types, textures, and ethnicities are increasingly sought after by consumers looking for inclusive and representative options.
DIY and at-home treatments
With the rise of at-home beauty routines, consumers are looking for DIY and easy-to-use hair and scalp treatments. This trend includes products like masks, serums, and scalp exfoliators that can be applied at home for convenience.
Multifunctional products
Consumers appreciate products that offer multiple benefits. Hair and scalp products that combine functions, such as moisturizing, repairing, and protecting against environmental damage, are gaining popularity.
Beyond its renowned antimicrobial and antioxidant properties for the skin, mānuka leaf extract proves to be a game-changer in future hair and scalp care applications.
Inspired by a study in the Journal of Convergence for Information Technology, we conducted an ex vivo study to assess the extract’s potential in protecting hair colour after bleaching. Our research, utilizing 2% mānuka leaf extract in our shampoo and conditioner formulations, revealed superior colour retention and reduced hair frizziness compared to a salon-quality brand (Figures 6 and 7).
In a scalp serum formulation containing 2% mānuka leaf extract, we addressed the issue of dandruff. Volunteers with flaky scalps participated in a 14-day trial, and the results, measured using the Visioscan® VC 20plus imaging system, were compelling. The before-and-after images (Figures 8 and 9) demonstrated a significant reduction in white particles, indicating a decrease in dandruff and improved scalp health.
Key findings from the self-evaluation survey
The subsequent self-evaluation survey conducted among the volunteers yielded promising results.
- 100% of volunteers noticed less scalp irritations after treatment
- 70% of volunteers observed a reduction in dandruff volume
- 70% of volunteers felt their scalp was more moisturized
- 45% of volunteers perceived a reduction in scalp oiliness
Conclusion
This comprehensive study affirms that mānuka leaf extract is not only a powerhouse for skin care but also a versatile ingredient for hair care. Its ability to enhance colour retention, reduce frizziness, and effectively address compromised scalp showcases the diverse applications of this nature’s miracle.
As the beauty industry seeks innovative, sustainable, and effective solutions, MānukaDerMX emerges as a beacon, inviting skin care and haircare enthusiasts to experience this transformative touch of New Zealand biodiversity. Organic Bioactives invites you to embrace the holistic benefits of mānuka leaf extract as a novel all natural active – a true ally for healthy, radiant skin, scalp and hair.