In 2017, International Flavours & Fragrances (IFF) started to work on alternatives to petrochemical solvents to extract absolutes. Among the new range of absolutes offered by LMR is Jasmine Conscious Absolute, in which antioxidant compounds have been identified.

The search for renewable solvents & a greener extraction process

In India, LMR Naturals by IFF has set up a natural innovation platform with a trusted partner for over 30 years, with whom a Fair for Life Certification has been obtained (F-1). 

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Fair for Life-certified supply chains are an important step towards respect of both people and biodiversity, with the control of an external accredited body (Ecocert) that will lead audits at source on social and environmental topics. Moreover, traceability of the raw material is key to ensure that good practices are applied to the certified supply chain.

Committed to do more good for the planet and the people, LMR’s expert team applied the principles of green chemistry to the extraction of natural raw materials by minimizing the use of hazardous substances and the environmental impact.¹ The research team has screened renewable solvents that meet a high standard set of eligibility criteria: 100% renewable carbon origin, 100% biodegradability, low toxicity, safe at industrial scale and lower carbon footprint.

In 2023, two IFF patents were granted in France to produce absolutes with new proprietary extraction processes. Through these processes, petrochemical solvents have been replaced by 100% renewable and biodegradable solvents that are safer for humans and the environment.² Apart from the use of renewable solvents, these processes are authentic absolute processes that are now implemented with industrial partners throughout the world (extraction of the raw material F-2 and F-3).

One of these processes allows LMR to produce absolutes that are certified organic and can be labeled with geographical indication “Absolute Pays de Grasse.”

Since 2020, LMR has partnered with Carbone 4 in an ambitious project to quantify carbon footprint over scopes 1, 2 and 3 for each ingredient produced. The emission factor of Jasmine Conscious Absolute is 87% lower than conventional absolute obtained by extraction with hexane, thanks to 30% lower emission of the renewable solvent itself and higher extraction yield.

Indeed, this more renewable process allows researchers to make the most of the plant, and this is particularly true for Jasmine grandiflorum. Only 145 kg of flowers are needed to produce 1 kg of Conscious Absolute, while 720 kg are necessary to produce 1 kg of conventional jasmine absolute. The higher yield can be explained by a higher polarity of the renewable solvent used.

Because the polarity of the solvent used is different from hexane’s, the analytical composition, and consequently the olfactive signature of the new Jasmine Conscious Absolute, are slightly different from that of conventional absolute, with less linalool, benzyl acetate, indole, and benzyl benzoate.

The new Jasmine Conscious Absolute has a characteristic white floral signature, but the typical fruity, green, and spicy facets are slightly toned down, giving it a more delicate and petal feel. On the dry down are found the solar and slightly animalic notes, typical of jasmine flowers.³

An unexpected analytical discovery

One of the major differences in the analytical composition analyzed by gas chromatography comes from compounds that were not extracted by petrochemicals: 13-16% of hydroxytyrosol, a polyphenol, but also elenolide isomers and elenolic acid ethyl ester isomers in lesser amounts, all derived from hydrolysis of oleuropein (F-4).

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Apart from hydroxytyrosol that has been described in a methanolic extract of dried jasmine aerial part, these compounds are new in jasmine absolutes and do not contribute to the characteristic jasmine odor, but are well-known constituents of olive oil.⁴

Unexpectedly, even if they look quite different from an anatomic perspective (F-5), Jasminum grandiflorum and olive trees (Olea europaea) both belong to the Oleaceae family and share biosynthetic routes to produce antioxidant phenolic compounds.

This interesting antioxidant activity was also assessed internally on new Jasmine Conscious Absolute and the other absolutes of the Conscious extracts collection.²

Efficacy testing

The antioxidant properties of the new Jasmine Conscious Absolute were evaluated compared to a conventional absolute using in-tubo testing. New Jasmine Conscious Absolute showed a 10-fold better activity than the conventional absolute for the inhibition of DPPH (2,2-diphényl-1-pycrylhydrazyle) radical with IC50 (half-maximal inhibitory concentration) of 0.0025% and 0.032%, respectively.

New Jasmine Conscious Absolute also showed a better activity than the conventional one for the inhibition of lipid peroxidation of linoleic acid in presence of oxygen catalyzed by hemoglobin. With an IC50 of 0.03% compared to 0.06% for the conventional absolute, it is twice as active.

These results could be linked to a higher percentage of total polyphenols expressed in gallic acid (Folin-Ciocalteu method) in the new Jasmine Conscious Absolute (19.6%) versus the conventional one (3.6 %).

New Jasmine Conscious Absolute was also tested in-vitro for its ability to inhibit the ROS (radical oxygen species) production after pyocyanin induction in NHDF (normal human dermal fibroblasts). F-6 shows that it significantly inhibits ROS production from 10-4 %. At 10-3 %, the new Jasmine Conscious Absolute inhibits 38% of the ROS production.

These results show that the new Jasmine Conscious Absolute has a better antioxidant profile than the conventional one. Its capacity to inhibit ROS production in NHDF leads to a good potential to limit skin oxidative stress.

The new Jasmine Conscious Absolute inhibited the production of skin mediator IL-8 following induction with pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1α (-22% at 10-4%) in NHDF in-vitro culture, showing calming and soothing properties.

The LMR Conscious Collection now comprises five absolutes obtained with renewable solvents, and more are in development. The new absolutes offer reinvention of classic absolutes known for decades, highlighting other olfactory facets constitutive of the extracted flowers, that can be exploited in fragrance creation. While the main objective of this collection is to reduce the environmental impact, new applications such as cosmetic uses present advantageous benefits over conventional absolutes, which offer a bright future for these new more sustainable ingredients.

References

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