Image: Frolova Elena

Natural cosmetic and personal care products have long since developed beyond another trend. Products that are heavily promoted for their natural content are the ‘new normal’ and as such ingredient suppliers are investing extensively in developing new natural ingredients that deliver on efficacy as well as their positive INCI names.

Natural actives have become a key part of the landscape for modern skin and hair care formulators, and increasingly suppliers are providing a range of natural or naturallyderived functional ingredients. This enables the possibility of highly effective products that are mostly or even entirely created from natural sources, fully showcasing the power and potential of the natural world.

Following is a selection of the latest natural actives and functional ingredients.

Actives

Givaudan Active Beauty’s Research & Development department has revealed the intimate mechanisms of skin renewal: from its stem cell activation to its ultimate superficial layer, called the Stratum Microbium.

By cracking the secrets of this complex regeneration cycle and its delicate balance, Givaudan Active Beauty have apprehended the fact that this process needs sequential activation from bottom to top, as well as protection of the natural balance of skin microbiota to maintain skin health and beauty.

By combining their metagenomic pioneering capability and their exclusive skills in bio-guided plant fractionation, Active Beauty skin experts have been able to develop the first active cosmetic ingredient dedicated to accelerate the entire skin regeneration process. Discovered from Orobanche rapum, a unique European chlorophyll-free plant, Revivyl has been scientifically designed to deliver targeted biological actions from the lower to the higher layers of the epidermis.

Evaluated through exhaustive in vitro, ex vivo andin vivostudies, Revivyl has demonstrated 6 holistic effects on the natural skin renewal cycle: Protection of epidermis stem cells by up to +171% surviving expression; reactivation of cellular metabolism by up to +85% Ki67 activation; stimulation of epidermis cells differentiation by up to +249% filaggrin, +489% involucrin, +414% loricrin; reinforcement of skin barrier up to +36% ceramides; reactivation of natural exfoliation by up to +56% exfoliation; active protection of skin microflora.

Four full clinical studies versus placebo using the latest technologies (Raman spectroscopy, Optical Coherence Tomography, Diagnoskin, metagenomic analysis and silicone replica) have proven the consumer benefits of Revivyl for face and body applications: in only 2 weeks to 28 days, skin barrier is reinforced (up to +36% water gain), exfoliation is reactivated (up to +244%); skin microflora is protected and skin surface is smoothed with up to -30% decrease in wrinkle number.

Over 24 billon pieces of DNA information from volunteers’ microbiote were analysed and it was discovered that this ingredient is not only able to trigger skin stem cells, but also protect the global microbiota population, even reducing unwanted pathogen species. This is unique in the industry, and will create a real added value for consumers.

Inspired by nature, Exsymolhas developed and patented a bio-superior compound, called Solexyl. This thiomethylpropenoic acid derivative is an isomer of entadamide A, a compound naturally present in tropical lianas. This active is a photoprotector in the same way natural chomophores such as DNA, tryptophane or urocanic acid are; but it also prevents the noxious effects of sun rays such as skin cancer, immuno-supression , inflammation, or premature ageing that are often generated by these same natural chromophores.

Exsymol’s tests have shown that this active has impressive photoprotective, antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, this active is capable of negating UV-induced immunosuppression.

Naturexhas strengthened its personal care portfolio with the introduction of Tillandsia to its Eutectys botanicals range. Also known as Angel’s Hair, Tillandsia is a plant that grows on other plants, often taking root on the limbs of trees, creating large structures that hang from the branches. It obtains moisture from run-off water that falls onto its stems and leaves. This is subsequently stored in its plump tissues, where it stays until required during dry periods.

Naturex has harnessed these properties to benefit human hair in the form of a new active – Tillandsia Eutectys – which has been proven to enhance hair suppleness, increasing its manageability by reducing friction and making it easier to comb. Like every other ingredient in the Eutectys collection, this new active is produced using Eutectigenesis, a patented extraction process that involves Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES).

Ichimaru Pharcos has developed a new product called Izayoi, as a new sun care active ingredient through the newly revealed anti-inflammation pathway. Izayoi improves many skin beauty factors which may be stimulated by UV in sun light; for example, erythema/sun burn, skin darkening and wrinkles.

According to the company’s studies for MED (Minimum Erythema Dose) on the same people over 10 years, MED becomes lower with ageing. Ichimaru Pharcos found one of the reasons that aged keratinocyte is more damaged by UVB compared to young keratinocyte.

Keratinocytes damaged by UVB release denatured U1RNA which is one of the DAMPs (Damage-associated molecular patterns), and surrounding non-damaged keratinocytes recognise the DAMPs to initiate inflammatory reactions leading to skin ageing like wrinkles, age spots or pigmentation. DAMPs influence is getting greater on aged keratinocytes, so older people need to pay attention to more sun care.

Izayoi inhibits DAMPs response on keratinocytes at the earliest stage of inflammation caused by UVB, so it is the most significant way to prevent photoageing. Izayoi inhibits inflammation cytokines induced by DAMPs-like substances on human keratinocytes but other conventional anti-inflammation agents do not have the same function. On human clinical studies, Izayoi inhibited facial erythema caused by the sun exposure, melanin activation, sun protection, wrinkles and skin hydration.

Izayoi is a natural plant extract made from rose fruit called ‘shiri’, from Traditional Chinese Medicine. The fruit is rich in vitamin C, so it is also used for dietary supplements and fruit liquor. Izayoi uniquely inhibits the DAMPs related inflammation induced by UVB while other common anti-inflammation agents do not; therefore, Izayoi gives the cosmetic industry a new era of sun care.

With age, the skin becomes slack and loses its tone. The study of tissue mechanics has highlighted the active role of the dermis, and of the fibroblasts in particular, in regulating the skin’s natural elastic properties. In vitroadditional efficacy data provided in 2016 confirm the capacity of Silab’sCoheliss to act on mechanobiology, a central process for maintaining skin firmness, through its three main components: mechanosensation, mechanotransduction and mechanoresponse.

A pioneer in the field of mechanobiology, Coheliss improves the mechanical resistance of the dermis by stimulating the expression of key players such as integrin α2β1, vinculin and α-SMA, and reinforces the contraction capacity generated by fibroblasts, which is essential to maintain the skin’s integrity.

Coheliss boosts the expressions of integrin α2β1 and vinculin rich in arabinoxylans purified from French rye seeds (INCI Name: Secale cereale Seed Extract), and is the result of a nondenaturing industrial process.

A biomimetic active ingredient, Coheliss transposes to the skin the natural properties of arabinoxylans, molecules responsible for the cohesion and mechanical resistance of the rye.

The ingredient stimulates the natural resources of the skin in order to restore its mechanical properties and return its natural lifting properties to normal.

Coheliss is a patented active ingredient, easy to formulate and compliant with global cosmetic regulations (Europe, United States, Japan and China).

Functional ingredients

The Zschimmer & Schwarz Lumorol K – series is well-known as ideal surfactant blends for bath and shower applications. Zschimmer & Schwarz has now added two new products to the portfolio: Lumorol K 5601 is a sulfate-free and PEG-free product based on a very well-balanced ratio between the components cocamidopropyl betaine, alkyl sulfoacetate and acyl sarcosinate. Due to its mildness, it can also be recommended for colour protection applications. Lumorol K Natural is a mixture of coco sulfate, alkyl polyglycosides and cocoyl glutamate. Thanks to its special composition it fulfills the requirements for a Cosmos certification. With both products the viscosity of the final formulation can easily be adjusted without using thickeners like xanthan gum.

In the cosmetics industry, demand for raw materials for use in natural cosmetics products is steadily on the rise. To assist with this objectiveEvonikhas launched the functional additive Sipernat 11 PC to substitute microplastics. Functional additives in cosmetics improve the appearance and sensory properties of cosmetic products.

Sipernat 11 PC has been specially developed under its former name EXP 9590 as a substitute for microplastics in personal care and toning creams, foundations, makeup, and face powder. Sipernat 11 PC improves the sensory properties, leaving a better, more elegant skin-feel. It also acts as an optical blurring agent, mattifies the skin surface, and reduces visible wrinkles.

Sipernat specialty silica can be used to replace polymer materials such as polyethylene, and polypropylene that have so far been used for this purpose in cosmetics formulations. Microplastics in cosmetics are currently the subject of debate as global marine pollutants.

Following on, its Sipernat 2200 PC and Sipernat 22 PC products for shower gels and face and body peels, Evonik has continues to innovate in the area of resource-conserving products. A major part of silica-based cosmetics formulations come from Evonik.

All Sipernat PC products (Sipernat 11 PC, Sipernat 22 PC, and Sipernat 2200 PC) have been listed as nature identical by the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (Natrue), a globally active association that works for the promotion of natural skin care. In addition, all the three products have Ecocert certification and can therefore be used in natural cosmetic products.

Olivem 2020 from Hallstaris a naturally-derived cold process emulsifier based on olive oil chemistry for energy efficient operations. It is a multifunctional biomimetic ingredient combining excellent emulsification performance and natural dermollience. It can also be used as a sensorial modifier, stabiliser, and thickener to provide added benefits to a very wide range of formulations. Compared to other cold process emulsifiers on the market, Olivem 2020 delivers superior sensoriality attributes and sustains skin hydration. It is environmentally friendly since it does not need heating or pressure to perform, and because its majority composition is naturederived ingredients. The recommended use level for Olivem 2020 is 2-3% in o/w emulsions or 1% as a sensorial and stabilisation ingredient.